Best Deadbolts for Toronto Semi-Detached Doors

You just bought a semi-detached in Leslieville. You're moving in next month and the front door has the original 1970s hardware. It's a standard Kwikset or Schlage F-series. You want to know what to put on it that isn't going to get kicked in by some kid with a boot. This article is about deadbolts that actually work for a Toronto semi-detached front door.

What a Deadbolt Is (And Isn't)

A deadbolt is a lock that uses a bolt, usually solid steel, that extends from the door into the door frame. Unlike a spring latch on a doorknob, a deadbolt can't be forced back with a shim or credit card. It requires a key to retract the bolt from the outside and often from the inside as well, though thumb-turn deadbolts are common for fire safety. The main purpose of a deadbolt is to prevent forced entry through the door itself or by manipulating the latch. It’s a mechanical barrier, pure and simple.

What a deadbolt isn't is a magic force field. It won't stop someone who wants to break a window or kick in a cheap door frame. It's one part of a layered security system. A good deadbolt on a flimsy door or a rotten door frame is a waste of money. We see this all the time in older parts of Toronto, like The Junction or Riverdale, where homeowners upgrade the deadbolt but the frame is still original wood, barely held together. The deadbolt is only as strong as the door and frame it's attached to.

There are two main types: single-cylinder and double-cylinder. A single-cylinder deadbolt has a key on the outside and a thumb-turn on the inside. This is the most common and generally recommended type for residential use because it allows for quick exit in an emergency, like a fire. A double-cylinder deadbolt requires a key on both the outside and the inside. While it might seem more secure because it prevents someone from breaking a nearby window, reaching in, and unlocking the door, it poses a significant fire hazard. You can get trapped inside if you can't find the key in a hurry. Most fire codes in Ontario discourage or prohibit double-cylinder deadbolts on primary exit doors for this reason. We install them if you insist, but we always advise against it for typical residential front doors in Mississauga or Vaughan.

Why Your Current Deadbolt Probably Sucks

If your semi-detached in areas like North York or Scarborough has a deadbolt installed by the builder 20, 30, or 40 years ago, it's likely a standard residential grade 3 lock. Brands like Kwikset or lower-end Schlage are common. These locks are designed for basic security, not for deterring a determined individual. The bolts are often thin, the cylinders are easily picked or bumped, and the strike plates are usually secured with short screws that barely penetrate the door frame. A Grade 3 deadbolt can be defeated with minimal effort, often just a solid kick.

The problem isn't just the lock itself, but the installation. Builders often use screws that are too short to secure the strike plate effectively. A typical strike plate might be held by two 3/4-inch screws. These screws bite into the soft door jamb, which offers little resistance. When someone applies force, the jamb splits, and the deadbolt simply rips out. We see this after break-ins in areas like Etobicoke, where older homes have been targeted. The deadbolt is still intact, but it's no longer attached to the door frame.

Another weakness is the cylinder itself. Many older or cheaper deadbolts use pin tumbler cylinders that are vulnerable to picking, bumping, or drilling. Lock bumping is a technique where a specially cut key is inserted and then struck, causing the pins to momentarily jump, allowing the lock to be opened. This doesn't leave much evidence, making it difficult for insurance claims. Drilling through the cylinder can also defeat these locks quickly. If your deadbolt doesn't specifically mention anti-drill or anti-pick features, assume it's vulnerable.

Finally, the door itself and the frame around it are critical. A solid core door is essential. Many semi-detached houses, especially those built in the 70s and 80s, have hollow or light-core doors that can be easily breached. Even the best deadbolt won't secure a door that can be kicked through or split apart. Same goes for the door frame. If the frame is rotting, or if it's made of soft wood and secured with short screws, the deadbolt's effectiveness is severely compromised. We recommend inspecting your door and frame when considering a deadbolt upgrade.

Understanding Lock Grades and What They Mean

Lock grades are an important, but often overlooked, factor when choosing security hardware. The American National Standards Institute (ANSI) and Builders Hardware Manufacturers Association (BHMA) developed a system to rate locks based on their performance under various tests. These tests include cycles of operation, security against forced entry, and resistance to corrosion. For residential applications, you'll typically encounter three grades: Grade 1, Grade 2, and Grade 3.

* Grade 1: This is the highest security rating for residential and light commercial use. Grade 1 deadbolts are tested to withstand 250,000 cycles of operation and ten strikes of 75 foot-pounds of force. They typically feature a 1-inch minimum bolt throw, hardened steel inserts, and heavy-duty components. Brands like Schlage B600/B800 series or Baldwin Estate series often meet this standard. If you want serious security for your semi-detached in areas like Richmond Hill or Markham, a Grade 1 deadbolt is what you should be looking at.

* Grade 2: This is a good balance between security and cost. Grade 2 deadbolts are tested for 150,000 cycles and five strikes of 75 foot-pounds of force. They offer better security than Grade 3 but aren't as robust as Grade 1. Most mid-range residential deadbolts fall into this category. Schlage B500 series or Kwikset SmartKey deadbolts are often Grade 2. These are suitable for many homes in Toronto, Mississauga, or Vaughan, offering a significant upgrade over basic builder-grade hardware without the higher price tag of Grade 1.

* Grade 3: This is the lowest security rating. Grade 3 deadbolts are tested for 100,000 cycles and two strikes of 75 foot-pounds of force. These are the basic, entry-level deadbolts often found on new construction or inexpensive doors. Kwikset's standard deadbolts or lower-end Schlage models are typically Grade 3. While they provide a minimal deterrent, they are easily defeated by forced entry. We generally advise against using Grade 3 deadbolts on any primary exterior door for a semi-detached home, especially in areas with higher break-in rates.

When we install a deadbolt, we always specify the grade. Don't just ask for "a good deadbolt." Ask for a Grade 1 or a Grade 2 deadbolt. This ensures you're getting hardware that has been independently tested for its resistance to physical attack. It's a concrete measure of security, not just marketing fluff. For a semi-detached front door in a city like Toronto, a Grade 1 or strong Grade 2 is the minimum we recommend for effective protection.

Anatomy of a Secure Deadbolt Installation

A deadbolt is only as good as its installation. We can put a top-tier Medeco on your front door, but if it's not installed correctly, it's not doing its job. A proper installation starts with boring the holes correctly. The cross bore for the deadbolt body and the edge bore for the bolt itself need to be precise. If these holes are off, the bolt won't align properly with the strike plate, leading to binding or a weak lock. We use specialized jigs to ensure these holes are perfectly aligned, especially on older doors where existing holes might be worn or poorly cut.

The strike plate is probably the most critical component after the deadbolt itself. Standard strike plates are thin metal, secured by short 3/4-inch screws. This is a massive weak point. A secure deadbolt installation includes a heavy-duty, reinforced strike plate, secured with long, 3-inch or 4-inch screws. These longer screws go through the door frame and into the structural stud behind it. This transfers the force of an attempted kick-in from the soft door jamb to the much stronger house framing. This small detail alone can turn a vulnerable door into a formidable barrier. We don't skip this step.

Another often overlooked detail is the door reinforcement. For a semi-detached front door, especially if it's an older wooden door, we often recommend a door wrap or door edge protector. These are steel plates that wrap around the edge of the door where the deadbolt bolt extends. They prevent the wood from splitting around the bolt hole during a forced entry attempt. Similarly, a door frame reinforcement kit, which is a steel plate that reinforces the jamb around the strike plate, adds another layer of protection. These reinforcements are particularly useful in older homes in areas like Cabbagetown or Kensington Market where the door frames might be original and slightly deteriorated.

Finally, the screws securing the deadbolt body itself. They might seem minor, but if these screws are too short or strip out, the deadbolt can be pulled apart from the door. We use appropriate length screws that bite firmly into the door material. For metal doors, this means specific metal screws. For wood doors, longer wood screws prevent stripping. Every screw matters. We don't just put the lock in the hole and call it a day. We ensure every component is secured to its maximum potential.

High-Security Deadbolts: Medeco vs. Mul-T-Lock

When you're serious about security for your semi-detached in Toronto, Mississauga, or Vaughan, high-security deadbolts are the way to go. These locks go beyond Grade 1 standards and offer superior protection against picking, drilling, bumping, and forced entry. The two biggest names in this category are Medeco and Mul-T-Lock. Both are excellent, but they achieve their security in slightly different ways.

Medeco: Medeco locks, particularly their BiLevel and M3 series, are known for their extreme pick and drill resistance. They use a unique pin tumbler system with angled cuts and lifting pins that must be rotated to specific angles while being lifted to the correct height. This makes them incredibly difficult to pick. The cylinders also incorporate hardened steel inserts to resist drilling. Medeco keys are restricted, meaning they can only be duplicated by authorized dealers with proper identification, preventing unauthorized key copying. This is a significant advantage for homeowners in areas like Forest Hill or Rosedale where security is a top priority. A Medeco BiLevel deadbolt typically ranges from $280 to $450 for the hardware itself, depending on finish and model. Installation adds to this.

Mul-T-Lock: Mul-T-Lock deadbolts, specifically their Interactive+ and MT5+ platforms, offer similar high-security features. They use a telescopic pin tumbler system, where outer and inner pins must be aligned simultaneously, making them highly resistant to picking and bumping. Like Medeco, Mul-T-Lock cylinders feature hardened steel inserts for drill resistance. Their keys are also restricted and patented, requiring a specific card for duplication. Mul-T-Lock deadbolts often feature robust, heavy-duty construction for the bolt itself, further enhancing forced entry resistance. Their hardware tends to be very substantial. A Mul-T-Lock Interactive+ deadbolt typically ranges from $260 to $420 for the hardware, comparable to Medeco.

Comparison: Both brands offer excellent security. The choice often comes down to personal preference or specific keying requirements. Medeco's angled pin system is renowned for pick resistance. Mul-T-Lock's telescopic pins offer similar protection. Both have drill protection and restricted keys. Medeco's M3 platform is slightly more advanced in terms of key control and pick resistance than their older BiLevel. Mul-T-Lock's MT5+ offers a mobile element within the key for even greater control. For a typical semi-detached front door in Etobicoke or Markham, either system provides a massive leap in security over standard deadbolts. The key control aspect is a major benefit for both, especially if you have contractors or cleaners and want to strictly manage who has keys.

* Medeco Pros: * Superior pick resistance due to angled pin design. * Excellent drill resistance with hardened steel inserts. * Patented, restricted keys prevent unauthorized duplication. * Available in various finishes to match existing hardware. * Grade 1 ANSI/BHMA certified.

* Medeco Cons: * Higher initial cost for hardware and rekeying. * Key duplication can only be done by authorized dealers. * Requires a specific installation process.

* Mul-T-Lock Pros: * Exceptional pick and bump resistance with telescopic pins. * Hardened steel inserts for drill protection. * Patented, restricted keys for key control. * Robust, heavy-duty construction. * Grade 1 ANSI/BHMA certified.

* Mul-T-Lock Cons: * Higher initial cost. * Key duplication restricted to authorized dealers. * Can feel slightly stiffer to operate initially compared to standard locks.

Choosing between Medeco and Mul-T-Lock often comes down to which system your locksmith is more familiar with or if you have existing high-security locks you want to match. We carry and install both, and both will provide a formidable barrier on your semi-detached front door.

Smart Locks: Convenience vs. Security Trade-offs

Smart locks are becoming more common on semi-detached homes in newer developments across Mississauga and Vaughan. They offer convenience features like keyless entry, remote access control, and integration with home automation systems. You can unlock your door with a smartphone app, a keypad code, or even your fingerprint. This eliminates the need for physical keys, which can be appealing if you often misplace them or need to grant temporary access to guests or service providers.

However, smart locks introduce a new layer of complexity and potential vulnerabilities. While many smart locks incorporate Grade 1 or Grade 2 mechanical deadbolts, their electronic components can be susceptible to different types of attacks. These include hacking, signal jamming, or simply battery failure. A dead battery means your smart lock is useless, and you're locked out unless you have a mechanical key override or a power backup. Many smart locks have a mechanical key override for this exact reason, but it's an extra step.

For a semi-detached front door, where security is paramount, we recommend a smart lock that still relies on a strong mechanical deadbolt as its primary locking mechanism. Avoid smart locks that are purely electronic with no physical bolt or key override. Brands like Schlage Encode, Yale Assure Lock, or August Smart Lock Pro often integrate a solid deadbolt with smart features. These locks typically use a standard Grade 2 deadbolt cylinder, meaning they offer comparable physical security to a good traditional deadbolt.

Here are some points to consider when looking at smart locks for your semi-detached:

* Mechanical Backup: Always choose a smart lock with a physical key override. If the electronics fail, you need to get in. * Connectivity: Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, Zigbee, Z-Wave. Understand how it connects and what hubs or bridges you might need. Wi-Fi offers direct remote control, but can be a battery drain. * Power Source: Most run on AA batteries. How long do they last? Do you get low battery warnings? * Security Protocols: Look for strong encryption and secure communication. * Installation: Can be more complex than a standard deadbolt due to wiring or electronic components. * Cost: Smart locks are significantly more expensive than traditional deadbolts, ranging from $200 to $500 for the hardware alone.

While smart locks offer undeniable convenience, we advise homeowners to weigh that against the potential electronic vulnerabilities. For maximum security, a high-security mechanical deadbolt like a Medeco or Mul-T-Lock is still the most robust option against physical attacks. A smart lock with a quality mechanical deadbolt is a good compromise if convenience is a high priority.

Strike Plate Reinforcement: The Weak Link Fix

The strike plate is the metal plate installed on the door frame that the deadbolt bolt extends into. This is, without a doubt, the most common weak point in residential door security. A standard strike plate is often thin, made of stamped steel, and secured with two short 3/4-inch screws. These screws barely penetrate the door jamb, which is often made of soft pine or MDF. When force is applied, like a kick, the jamb splits, and the screws pull right out. The deadbolt itself remains intact, but the door is open. We see this exact failure point in 9 out of 10 forced entry cases on semi-detached homes in places like East York or Pickering.

To fix this, you need a heavy-duty, reinforced strike plate. These plates are typically thicker, made of solid steel, and crucially, designed to be installed with long screws. We use 3-inch or 4-inch screws that pass through the door jamb and into the structural stud behind it. This means the force of an attempted break-in is transferred from the flimsy door jamb to the house's framing. This significantly increases the door's resistance to forced entry. It's a simple, relatively inexpensive upgrade that makes a massive difference.

When we install a new deadbolt, especially a high-security one, we always upgrade the strike plate. It makes no sense to put a $300 Medeco on a door and leave a $5 strike plate with short screws. That's like putting racing tires on a car with a broken axle. We ensure the new strike plate is properly mortised into the door frame so it sits flush. This prevents any gaps that could be exploited with a pry bar. For older homes in areas like The Beaches, where door frames might be compromised, we sometimes recommend a full-length door frame reinforcement kit. These are steel plates that run the entire height of the jamb, providing continuous reinforcement.

The cost of a high-quality reinforced strike plate is minimal, usually between $20 and $50. The installation time is negligible when done as part of a deadbolt replacement. It's the single most impactful upgrade you can make to your door's security after ensuring you have a solid door and a good deadbolt. Don't overlook this critical component. It's the difference between your deadbolt holding firm and your door frame splitting like kindling.

Key Control: Why It Matters for Your Semi-Detached

Key control is often an afterthought for homeowners, but it's a fundamental aspect of security for your semi-detached property. It refers to the ability to manage and restrict who can make copies of your keys. With standard residential deadbolts, like those from Kwikset or common Schlage models, keys can be duplicated at almost any hardware store, supermarket, or even a self-service kiosk for a few dollars. This means that anyone who gets their hands on your key – a contractor, a former tenant, a babysitter, or even someone who finds a lost key – can easily make a copy without your knowledge.

This lack of control poses a significant security risk. You lose track of how many copies of your house key are out there and who has them. For a semi-detached home, especially in busy Toronto neighborhoods or areas with frequent turnover, this is a serious vulnerability. You can change your locks, but if the new keys are just as easy to copy, you haven't solved the underlying problem. This is where high-security deadbolts like Medeco and Mul-T-Lock shine.

Both Medeco and Mul-T-Lock utilize patented, restricted key systems. This means their keys can only be duplicated by authorized locksmiths like Intrust, and only with proper identification and specific authorization from the registered owner. When we install these systems, we register the owner's information and provide a unique key card. To get additional copies, you must present this card and photo ID. This prevents unauthorized key duplication, giving you complete control over who has access to your home.

Here are the benefits of a restricted key system for your semi-detached:

* Prevents Unauthorized Copies: Only you decide who gets a key copy. * Accountability: You know exactly how many keys are in circulation. * Enhanced Security: Significantly reduces the risk of former employees, tenants, or lost keys being used for illicit entry. * Peace of Mind: You don't have to rekey your entire house every time a key is lost or a relationship changes. * Long-Term Investment: The initial cost is higher, but the long-term security and control are worth it.

For homeowners in Toronto, Mississauga, or Vaughan who value knowing exactly who has access to their property, a restricted key system is a non-negotiable feature. It's a proactive security measure that protects against a common, yet often overlooked, vulnerability.

Rekeying vs. Replacing: When to Do What

When you move into a new semi-detached in Toronto, or if you suspect your keys have been compromised, you have two main options: rekeying or replacing your deadbolts. Understanding the difference and when to choose each option is important for both security and cost efficiency.

Rekeying: Rekeying involves changing the internal pin configuration of your existing deadbolt cylinder so that a new key operates it, and the old key no longer works. The deadbolt hardware itself remains in place. This is a common service we perform for new homeowners in areas like Vaughan or Richmond Hill. It's significantly less expensive than replacing the entire deadbolt. We can rekey most standard residential deadbolts (Schlage, Kwikset, Yale) on-site. The process usually takes about 10-15 minutes per deadbolt. We charge a service call fee of $29, plus a per-cylinder rekeying fee, typically $25-$40 per cylinder, depending on the lock type.

You should consider rekeying when: * You've just moved into a new home and want to ensure previous owners or tenants can't get in. * You've lost a key and are concerned it might be found and used. * You want all your exterior doors to operate on a single key. * Your existing deadbolts are relatively new, in good condition, and meet your security requirements (e.g., they are already Grade 1 or Grade 2).

Replacing: Replacing a deadbolt means removing the entire existing deadbolt assembly and installing a brand new one. This involves new hardware, a new cylinder, and new keys. This is a more involved process and costs more due to the price of the new hardware. Installation time is typically 20-40 minutes per deadbolt, depending on the complexity and if modifications to the door or frame are needed.

You should consider replacing your deadbolts when: * Your existing deadbolts are old, worn out, or damaged. * Your existing deadbolts are low-grade (e.g., Grade 3) and you want a significant security upgrade to Grade 1 or a high-security brand like Medeco or Mul-T-Lock. * You want to upgrade to a smart lock or a different style of hardware. * The deadbolt is malfunctioning beyond simple repair. * You want a restricted key system, which requires specific hardware.

The decision often comes down to the condition and quality of your existing hardware. If your current deadbolts are cheap, old, or damaged, rekeying them is a waste of money. You're still left with poor security. In such cases, replacement with a Grade 1 or high-security deadbolt is the only sensible option for your semi-detached in any GTA city. We'll assess your current locks during our service call and give you an honest recommendation.

Common Mistakes Homeowners Make

We've been doing this for over a decade, responding to calls in Toronto, Mississauga, and Vaughan. We've seen every mistake homeowners make when it comes to their deadbolts. Avoiding these common pitfalls can save you money, frustration, and potentially a break-in.

* Ignoring the Door and Frame: The biggest mistake. You can put the best deadbolt in the world on a hollow-core door with a rotten frame, and it will still fail. Before thinking about the deadbolt, assess the condition of your door and its frame. Is the door solid? Is the frame sturdy, or does it flex when pushed? If they're weak, upgrade them first. * Using Short Screws: As discussed, 3/4-inch screws on the strike plate are useless. Always use 3-inch or 4-inch screws that go into the stud. This is a basic security measure that many DIYers or even some contractors overlook. * DIY Installation of High-Security Locks: Medeco, Mul-T-Lock, and other high-security deadbolts require precise installation. The tolerances are tighter, and incorrect boring or alignment can compromise their security features. If you're not experienced, hire a professional. You're paying for the security; don't negate it with a bad install. * Only One Deadbolt: For a semi-detached front door, especially if it's a solid door, consider two deadbolts. A second deadbolt, mounted 12-18 inches above or below the primary one, adds significant resistance to forced entry. It creates two points of failure for an intruder to overcome, making the door much harder to kick in. * Leaving Keys Under the Mat or Fake Rock: This isn't security; it's an invitation. If you need a spare key for emergencies, use a secure key safe mounted discreetly, or leave a key with a trusted neighbour. * Neglecting Hinges: On outward-swinging doors (less common for front doors but can happen), hinges can be a vulnerability. If the hinge pins are exposed and easily removed, an intruder can simply take the door off its hinges. Use security hinges with non-removable pins or set screws. * Not Testing the Lock: After installation, or periodically, test your deadbolt. Does it operate smoothly? Does the bolt extend fully into the strike plate without binding? A sticky or misaligned deadbolt is a weak deadbolt. * Ignoring Key Control: Handing out keys that can be easily duplicated without thought. This is a silent killer for security. Invest in restricted keys if you want to know who has access.

Maintenance for Longevity and Security

Even the best deadbolts need some basic maintenance to ensure they operate smoothly and provide maximum security over their lifespan. Neglecting your locks can lead to sticking, binding, and ultimately, a compromised security system. For a semi-detached in Toronto, where weather can fluctuate wildly, proper maintenance is even more important.

* Lubrication: This is the most crucial step. Use a graphite-based lubricant or a silicone-based spray specifically designed for locks. Do NOT use oil-based lubricants like WD-40, as they can attract dirt and grime, leading to gummy internal mechanisms over time. Apply a small amount into the keyway and onto the bolt mechanism once or twice a year. Insert and remove the key several times, then turn it to work the lubricant through the cylinder. * Cleaning the Keyway: If your key feels stiff or difficult to insert, the keyway might be dirty. A quick spray of lock lubricant can help flush out debris. You can also use a cotton swab lightly dampened with rubbing alcohol to clean the visible parts of the key. * Tighten Screws: Over time, screws can loosen due to daily use and temperature changes. Periodically check all the screws on your deadbolt, strike plate, and even the hinges. Tighten them with a screwdriver. Don't overtighten, as this can strip the screws or crack the wood. * Check Alignment: Ensure the deadbolt bolt aligns perfectly with the strike plate hole. If the door has shifted or the house has settled, the alignment can be off, causing the bolt to rub or not extend fully. If you notice binding, it might indicate a need for door or frame adjustment. This is common in older homes in areas like Parkdale or The Annex. * Inspect for Wear and Tear: Look for signs of damage or excessive wear on the bolt, cylinder, or housing. Rust, corrosion, or physical damage can compromise the lock's integrity. If you see significant damage, it's time to consider a repair or replacement. * Door and Frame Condition: Regularly inspect the door itself and the door frame for rot, cracks, or damage. A deadbolt is only as strong as what it's attached to. Address any issues with the door or frame promptly.

Regular maintenance, taking just a few minutes a year, can significantly extend the life of your deadbolt and ensure it remains a reliable security barrier for your semi-detached home.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: How much does it cost to install a new deadbolt? A: Our service call is $29 within Toronto, Mississauga, and Vaughan. A standard Grade 2 deadbolt installation on a pre-bored door typically runs $80-$120 for labour on top of the hardware cost (which can be $50-$100 for a good Grade 2). High-security deadbolts like Medeco or Mul-T-Lock have higher hardware costs ($280-$450) and sometimes slightly more involved installation.

Q: Can you install a deadbolt on any door? A: Most doors can accommodate a deadbolt, but a solid core door is essential for effective security. Hollow core doors or very thin doors are not suitable for deadbolts as they can be easily breached regardless of the lock. We also need sufficient space in the door frame for the strike plate and screws.

Q: How long does it take to install a deadbolt? A: For a pre-bored door, a standard deadbolt installation takes 20-30 minutes. If new holes need to be bored, or if door/frame reinforcement is involved, it can take 45-60 minutes. High-security locks sometimes require slightly more time for precision.

Q: What's the difference between a Grade 1 and Grade 2 deadbolt? A: Grade 1 is the highest residential security rating, tested for more cycles and forced entry resistance. Grade 2 is a good step up from basic, but not as robust as Grade 1. We generally recommend Grade 1 for front doors on semi-detached homes.

Q: Do you offer a warranty on your work? A: Yes, we provide a warranty on both labour and parts. Specific warranty periods vary by manufacturer for parts, but we stand behind our installation work.

Q: Can I get all my house locks to use the same key? A: Yes, this is called "keying alike." As long as the locks are from the same manufacturer and are compatible, we can rekey them to operate with a single key. This is a common request and makes managing your keys much easier.

Protecting your semi-detached front door in Toronto, Mississauga, or Vaughan isn't complicated. Get a solid core door, a Grade 1 or high-security deadbolt, a reinforced strike plate with long screws, and keep your keys secure. Don't cheap out on your main entry point.